The traditional suit-and-crisp-white-shirt combination, while reliable, is being retired from the forefront of style. The trend for 2026 is the "relaxed suit"— a look that balances polish with ease, aiming for the sweet spot between formal and sloppy. The goal is to look cool and breezy, not corporate or stiff.

The key lies in swapping classic shirtings for unexpected alternatives and embracing layering. Here are five actionable moves to update your tailoring.

1. Add a Layer — and Liberally Undo Buttons

The Look: Youthful and insouciant.
How to Do It: Start with a thin white tee or ribbed tank as a base layer. Layer a button-down shirt on top and undo most of the buttons, fastening only the bottom two or three. Tuck both layers into your suit trousers. Finish with a subtle Western belt.
Best With: A casual single-breasted suit or a modern, open double-breasted jacket worn unfastened.

2. Swap in a Rugged Henley

The Look: A rugged, less-clichéd alternative to the standard tee.
How to Do It: Choose a substantial henley (avoid flimsy fabrics) in white or a color that complements your suit. The structured placket provides visual interest without the formality of a dress shirt.
Key Tip: Ensure the henley is robust enough that the unbuttoned placket lays neatly under your blazer.

3. Reach for a Chill Three-Piece Suit

The Look: Unexpected yet minimalist.
How to Do It: Subvert the formality of a three-piece suit by wearing the matching vest in a relaxed way. Opt for minimalist details like hidden buttons. For a casual twist, wear a simple tee underneath the vest and consider adding a pendant necklace on top.
Pro Advice: The vest can be mixed with other suits in a similar fabric and color for more versatility.

4. Match the Shades with Texture

The Look: Elevated and cohesive.
How to Do It: Practice tone-on-tone dressing by pairing a suit and shirt in muted shades from the same color family (e.g., navy, gray, brown). They don't need to match exactly. Introduce texture—like a wool flannel shirt—to add depth and prevent the monochrome look from appearing flat.
Avoid: Overly bright or contrasting colors that break the streamlined effect.

5. Play With Luxe Knitwear

The Look: Smart, casual, and pulled-together.
How to Do It: Replace your dress shirt with fine-gauge knitwear. Ideal pieces include a luxe quarter-zip, a thin turtleneck, or a merino polo. For added dimension, layer a turtleneck under a polo in a complementary neutral shade.
Fabric is Key: Stick to fine merino wool for comfort and to avoid bulk. Using knitwear in a neutral color allows a suit in a bolder shade (like pale pink) to stand out.

Summary: Core Principles of the Relaxed Suit

• Swap the Shirt: Move beyond the crisp white button-down.
• Embrace Layering: Use tanks, tees, and knitwear to add depth.
• Prioritize Texture: Introduce fabric interest through flannel, ribbing, or fine knits.
• Loosen Up: Physically (with undone buttons) and stylistically (with casual pieces).
• Coordinate Colors: Use tonal dressing for a sophisticated, modern effect.

By following these guidelines, you can transform your suit from a uniform of formality into a versatile foundation for contemporary, cool style.